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Good PR, Part III: Partying Affiliations

The lesbian was scaring the straights. Terrifying us, actually. While her name completely escapes me, her vivacious form, inadequately sheathed in a skin-hugging black dress just didn’t seem to leave my head very easily. The blonde lesbian spoke almost perfect English but I wasn’t sure that was a good thing. The way she trilled her ‘r’s, with one eyebrow raised while doing absolutely nothing to detract attention away from reckless cleavage was driving me and the only other interested party up the fucking wall.

Other than the usually attractive Puerto Rican women on the periphery, I wasn’t expecting to have my fancy, er, tickled, two feet from my face on that late June night, especially since the night was not about me, nor my lustful wanderings. No, the real purpose of the evening’s outing was a mutual wooing between Pou and Joe. I was 100% of Pou’s entourage (200% if going by my medical charts) and mostly, I was there to fill the storied “wing-man” role. The slight twist this time around (as I have played this role many times before) was the opposite orientation of the pilot.   

My years in the Washington, DC bubble had provided plenty of instances of mixed crowds, where sexual orientation was as mundane a descriptor as hair color. Whether someone was gay or straight was largely irrelevant in large groups because there was a high probability that every circle contained differing proportions of those who enjoyed musicals and those who didn’t, as it had been put to me once. Still, there was rarely ever a question of team affiliation. Everyone wore their jerseys, prominently.

At Divino Bocadito, a Spanish-themed bar/restaurant in the rhythmic heart of old San Juan, it was admittedly hard to distinguish who was home and who was visiting. Several of San Juan’s young and most attractive yuppie males gathered around small tables to form a bloc in the middle of the restaurant. They were all well dressed and sociable, yet as far from flamboyant as one could saunter away from.   

Of the entire clique, Pou was hot-to-trot for a certain Joe, a man who worked for a childhood friend of his. At the epicenter of the whole group, Joe’s short, stocky frame fit very well with a stoic, leader-like face unwilling to give an easy smile. It was in sharp contrast to Pou’s usually large grin, similar to the one he was sporting earlier in the afternoon when Joe called and asked Pou to join him and one of his clients for drinks. Pou insisted I go with him, despite my refusal to tag along with him on his date, and insisted even more on the outing not being a “date”. I think we were both surprised when the “date” turned into a gaggle. 

I remember there was Benny and his older, straight, brother, Julio, followed by names and faces blurred by time and wine. And what wine it was. Culled from the vineyards of Spain’s famed Rioja region, we drank inexhaustibly from the bottles sold exclusively to Divino Bocadito, courtesy of Joe’s expense account. By bottle three, everyone at the table was loose and sociable.

While the older patrons in the restaurant gracefully danced the classic Sevillanas behind us, everyone at our tables began the dance of introduction. For the most part, Joe and his friends were affable people and a fair number were willing to utilize some of their limited English to engage me in conversation. The men in the group were friendlier than the two or three women who eventually joined us. The stuck-up senioritas kept to themselves while straining under the weight of gaudy jewelry.

The small establishment was a well-decorated homage to the Spanish old country. Drapes hung dramatically from walls and ceilings while the room bled russet and ochre tones. The low lighting provided the appropriate atmosphere for relaxed, casual non-dates. By wine bottle eleven – including a couple just for me – I was sitting with old friends. Yet, like the straight male probe of women to determine availability, a bald antique dealer in the group who resembled Seal’s long-lost white cousin, kept asking me what kind of clubs I was into.

On the way to Baru, we had managed to co-opt more people into our roving band and once we sat down in the virtually empty bar, we made sure to co-opt more wine and an assortment of beer bottles, as well. Baru was on one of the main strips of the old town and had an interior that looked like an Easter egg haphazardly dipped in blue dye. Pou and Joe were getting closer physically and the group condensed itself into less booth space. It was a far cry from the stiff, business-like greeting the initial handshake between Joe and Pou implied. The bar’s sparseness lent a subversive air to the outing as if, finally, everyone could be themselves.

It was in such an environment – and with such bottomless glasses – where team logos began to reveal themselves. Specifically, on my lower left leg, which is where a member of the group possessing a high enough number on the sleaze scale, felt compelled to rub my shin under the table a few times while talking to someone in the opposite direction. I was at once repulsed and disappointed. He disgusted me but at the same time I was annoyed at who I attracted. After I saw him do that to pretty much everyone at the table, it was hard to be sore at him. I suppose you can’t blame a guy – gay or straight – for trying.           

An observation I couldn’t help but notice that evening was that even though the alcohol was flowing freely and the group was at a comfort level accessible to all of its members, there was a strange feeling of reserve that I wouldn’t have seen in DC. It would have been quite the opposite, really. Innuendo amongst the group was rampant and provocative moves were happening under the table, figuratively and literally. Yes, after about an hour our waiter blended into the group and it was wholly obvious where his affiliations lie and, yes, the physical space between Pou and Joe had turned to nil. Regardless, there was certainly not going to be any public displays of affection or any blatant touching, not even between Joe and Pou, the centerpiece of our outing. 

Luckily for Julio and I, the blonde lesbian provided more than enough of a distraction for the small bastion of heterosexuality we represented. She would have been classified as a “lipstick lesbian,” although we certainly weren’t paying any attention to her cosmetic preferences. She was engulfed in the arms of Inabel, a woman she had met that evening and together, they were redefining displays of affection. The caressing; the touching; the kissing. Their public performance was not only driving us straights into uncharted realms of frustration, but it reinforced a classic double standard.

I was reminded of how Puerto Rico, although a key parcel of the United States’ global land collection, and probably more closely in line with the mainland than, say, Guam or the Marshall Islands, is still just as much, in Latin America as affiliated with North America. The traditionally religious, conservative line still holds sway over social attitudes and customs. What Puerto Ricans as a society think about sexuality is definitely in line with certain parts of the mainland, too, though. Or maybe it’s just male sexuality?

Regardless, the night went exceptionally well for Pou and Joe, who bid each other a temporary farewell after a couple more bar-hops. Pou seemed content, regardless of my mediocre wing-manning. As per usual, few things scream alcohol absorption better than greasy eggs and pancakes at the neighborhood IHOP, which is exactly where we ended up. While battling to keep from falling south into my Western omelet, I looked around at the surrounding booths filled with affectionate straight couples, freely groping each other at will and wondered if Pou felt something about the evening with Joe was missing. Just then his phone rang. It was Joe. Pou smiled wider than I’d yet seen.    

November 02, 2006 in Puerto Rico | Permalink | Comments (1)

Good PR, Part II: The Fifteen-Minute Flamenco

Planes are not supposed to make instantaneous, sharp left turns when approaching a runway; at least not in my opinion. Fighter pilots probably get a pass on that rule. While a lover, and certainly no fighter pilot, I love gazing down from my window-side seat, upon a carpet of land rolling flatly and serenely toward a level horizon. I’m also madly smitten with the plane itself gliding straight, its wings tranquilly cutting through air. Mostly, though, I’m head-over-heels for a proper landing; one in which the craft is gradually posited from air to strip as delicately as hot dish to table via a steady waiter’s hand.

Pou and I had made the one-hour journey east from San Juan to Fajardo after what would become a regular morning pit-stop at the fashionable, neighborhood Starbucks near his apartment. Our intention was to catch a ferry taking us from the “big island” to Culebra, one of two floating specs of Puerto Rican territory off its eastern coast. It was home to Flamenco Beach; reputedly one of the world’s most beautiful locales for real, quality sunburn. Pou had actually never been and so Culebra was going to be a new facet of the commonwealth for both us.

Let’s see; what’s a good metaphor to describe the line at the ferry terminal? How about Soviet breadline? Simply replace winter shawls and Marxist deprivation with beach towels and Puerto Rican resignation. The line was at a standstill, which didn’t seem to bother the beachgoers waiting in front of the scruffy ticket window. Meanwhile, the cashiers behind the glass, appeared to be enjoying a smoke break of elongated proportions. No one seemed too concerned that the ferry was scheduled to leave in less than an hour and not a single ticket had been sold.   

Pou had clearly spent too much time on the mainland, particularly DC, because after about fifteen minutes of waiting, he got antsy and started to loudly complain in English and Spanish about the lack of line movement to anyone in his vicinity. The rest of the queue just stood around as if the delay was a regular occurrence they had expected. Much like remarking to someone in an elevator about errant weather, I looked at the woman in front of me and gave her the ‘ole can-you-believe-this-shit smirk/eye roll combo. It was the best I could do. Pou, his lack of height notwithstanding, kept trying to look over and to the side of everyone in front of us in order to find the invisible obstruction holding everyone up.

Finally, forty minutes later, our savior made her debut. A thick woman, in loud, fuzzy pink, rolled up to the thin metal bars separating the lined from the lineless. Shrilly, she advertised the impending arrival of large white vans able to ferry the ferry passengers to the local airport for a fifteen-minute, twenty-seven dollar flight to Culebra. Considering we made ourselves get up at six in the morning to get to Fajardo, an uneventful outpost, we had little choice but to follow the Energizer bunny to the airport-bound van.

It was a stretch calling a shack adjacent to its glorified driveway an airport, but that is what the sign said. As the van pulled closer, my heartbeat began to increase rapidly as I knew what “fifteen-minute flight” was really a euphemism for: a ride on a propeller plane.

I don’t do well with prop planes. They have the wind resistance of kites; the stability of hapless drunks. More so, every passenger must state their weight when asked at the ticket counter, which was more than slightly disconcerting. The question itself reveals two disturbing things: that the plane has only a certain weight capacity which, if slightly exceeded, could plunge us into oblivion; and that my doctor has said the same thing about my weight.

When Pou translated that very question after the lady at the ticket counter uttered it, a spotlight shown on me that I wasn’t prepared to stand under. There wasn’t enough light. Pou, to my right, kept stressing the importance of giving them as accurate a number as I could since we were going to be shot skyward in a tiny, narrow tube where the total weight bears as much importance as the wings. Regardless of his sound reasoning, I flat-out lied and told the lady at the counter a number that was fifteen below what any scale on the planet beneath my feet would read. Then I repeated it even after Pou gave me an are-you-sure-asshole head tilt/half-smile combo? The strange thing is that I still don’t know why I had fibbed. I suppose I was uncomfortable answering an uncommonly personal question in front of uncommon people and/or I was most definitely trying to flirt with the woman behind the counter.

When it came time to fly, the mocha-hued counter lady dictated the seating arrangement, via clipboard. Pou sat to my left in the winged crawlspace and I took the seat assigned to me on the right side of the plane. A woman of comparable size to myself, sat two “rows” ahead of me, right next to where the pilot was going to sit. The guy in front of me was also no waif and it quickly became apparent that the larger folks were all seated on the right side of the plane. I hoped the luggage and/or a rhino would be weighing down the other side.

When the tall pilot entered, donning his headgear, he literally had to almost squirm into the craft in order to position himself next to the ample sample occupying the seat next to him. Pou, meanwhile, continued to sport his gargantuan smile partly out of habit, but more likely because my heart was pounding through my shirt. There was, after all, a violently revolving propeller three feet away from my head.

Take-off was shaky. So was the door of the plane. A narrow crack between the floor of the cabin and the door revealed nothing but sky. Every time a gust of wind hit us, every bolt of the aircraft shook overdramatically. Likewise, so did I. At one point I accidentally hit the passenger in front of me with my hand as I desperately tried to hold on during a brief bout of turbulence.

We were flying low enough to where we could see the deep water of the Caribbean gradually lighten to a coral hue. Solitary, rocky outcrops sat below us, surrounded by their own white water orbits making them planets adrift. The trip was as quick as advertised and for maybe ten of those fifteen minutes, turbulence-free. I turned to Pou once I began to relax and he was having a jolly old time laughing at my expense. During a brief stint in roller coaster interest in my younger days, Pou embodied the thrill-seeking yahoo, waving their hands in the air, while I clutched the metal bar in front of me in shear terror.

As the tiny island of Culebra came in full, glorious view, I couldn’t help but gasp at the site of a nearly horseshoe-shaped beach below us. The closer we got, the more crystalline the waters appeared. I’m not a beach person at all, so I was surprised – in between praying – by how impressed I was. Flamenco Beach was stunning, aerially speaking, and as we would soon learn, even more so while lying on its warm, almost too-perfect sands.

The plane glided close to the island’s green mountains and naturally, the wind started to pick up a little bit. Pou was muttering, with cruel glee, something about the plane not so much landing as dropping. Paying half attention, all I could focus on was the wobbling horizon line and clutching the seat cushion in front of me. I could not see a runway until the very last second and I swore I saw it before the pilot did. Immediately, I couldn’t give a shit how scenic the mountains were because the closer we got to the runway, the more I realized how little running room there was. The entire island itself isn’t as long as some of the runways at O’Hare. Approaching landing as a car approaches a parking spot it had almost missed, the pilot abruptly turned the plane in cartoon fashion; with screeching sounds in tow. I jumped in panic, to the delight of the people behind me, as well as Pou. The craft began to almost violently sway and, as foretold, immediately plunged toward the ground. Within seconds it dropped. Just dropped.

Culebra proved to be worth every minute of in-flight agony and the thirty minutes required to scrape my heart off the runway. Flamenco Beach was the most incredible beach I had ever seen or experienced. We rented scooters which we happily used to get around the island. We met some interesting island locals with whom we hung out till the wee hours. Pou and I enjoyed whatever rum-laced drinks the bartenders at the local dive put in front of us. It was peaceful, tranquil, serene and much-needed.

So was the ferry ride back.    

August 29, 2006 in Puerto Rico | Permalink | Comments (5)

Good PR, Part I: Melting and the Melting Pot

Pou’s enormous smile (which at its widest could probably be seen from space) always radiates welcoming warmth. As if anymore were needed. On exiting the Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport, I felt like I had just been slapped with a balmy, damp towel. I dialed Pou on my cell and told him which terminal I was melting outside of. Within ten minutes, I turned in the direction of my name being called and became momentarily blinded by sun gleaming on enamel. My apparent striking resemblance to the darker Puerto Ricans hanging out at the airport was the reason Pou gave for his delay as we hugged. It was comforting to see him again after a long absence and even more comforting, as it always is, to see a familiar face in a strange land.

OK, that’s being a tad dramatic. Thinking of Puerto Rico as strange and unfamiliar is absurd once you drive by the San Juan outposts of OfficeMax, Kmart, Big Kmart, Super Kmart, Sears and the dozen or so Starbucks scattered around the metro area. Still, my Spanish was exactly that, mine and apparently no one else’s. It’s my “second language” in the sheer sense of knowing several nouns and being able to string them together, verb-free, to form Cro-magnum-like sentence structures. I’ve found it to be about fifty-fifty whether or not my intended meaning is conveyed or I’ve only angered the natives.

While thankfully within the speeding confines of Pou’s air-chilled, Toyota, he explained the geography of the city. San Juan proper, mostly encompassing Old San Juan, was actually on its own island. Bayamón and Guaynabo, where Pou lived, were the other two areas making up San Juan metro. Pou spoke with an obvious affection for the place, even while deftly dodging the homicidal whims of Puerto Rican drivers. Leaving the island after high school, Pou had recently come back after several years as a graphic designer in DC, which is how we met. All of his family was still on the island and, as I would learn that week, his heart had never really left.

From the airport, it was a quick drive to Guaynabo, a fairly affluent section of town, filled with condo high-rises and terra-cotta-ed villas. Heavily gated communities sat alongside one another in bright colors, each fronted by their own piked security stations. Immediately, the scene recalled a brief stopover in El Salvador a couple of years ago. The capital, San Salvador, was rife with such walled-in, barbed wire-topped, fortresses. Somewhat understandably, Salvadorans had just gotten over a twelve-year civil war. What was Puerto Rico’s excuse?

Pou’s place was a very modern, clean apartment in a shabby-less building situated just off the main drag. After settling in, we re-entered his car and literally went about two blocks around the corner to where everyone in the neighborhood went to see and be seen.

I have been to many a strip mall in my life, but I can definitely say I have never been to one emulating a country club so much more than a retail destination. Pou lived right on the other side of this small cluster of stores and cafes often frequented by whom he referred to as the “Ladies Who Lunch”, a wonderfully derogatory term for the well-off neighborhood wives who apparently spent their days having coffee and salad after their L.A. Weight Loss appointments.

It seemed especially apt while standing in line at Ponte Fresco, an express soup and salad joint where staff in ridiculous red and black, pseudo-pirate regalia will chop lettuce and over twenty other ingredients into a plastic bowl for your pleasure. The Puerto Ricans in line were all, for the most part, pale white and had they not uttered a word, could have been mistaken for NASCAR fans. The women were thin, curvaceous things; definitely a playground for the eyes. The men were themselves healthy and well-dressed in the latest designer threads which didn’t fail to make Pou’s eyes speed a few laps around the track.

After forking over about thirty dollars for a soup, salad and drink for each of us, we got back in the car – Starbucks coffee in cup-holder – and headed to Old San Juan. The highway rose above sprawling malls and shopping plazas and about four car dealerships per mile. We passed the giant resort hotels and city beaches of the trendy Condado neighborhood. San Juan’s notorious public housing projects began to crop up the closer we got to the city center. Pou told me, as we drove alongside, that one project in particular, La Perla, used to be so dangerous you couldn’t even drive near it. Today, tourists walk on the footpath overlooking the virtual collection of shanty structures with satellite dishes perched above as if admiring a new animal exhibit at the zoo. 

Fort San Felipe del Morro ruled the northwest point of the islet of San Juan like an anchor. Behind its ancient and watchful presence, lay Old San Juan’s cobblestone streets and colorful facades, harkening back to a not so simple time. The Spanish, English, Dutch and eventually the Americans, all laid mostly violent siege to the city at some point in its colonial history. The fort’s weathered stone and splintered gates told a behind-the-brochure story of bloody conquest. Meanwhile, the large expanse of hilly green the fort sat on, where red-headed kids flew kites and ebony teenagers made-out, told a different story. Perhaps one of harmoniously assimilated cultures, or maybe a fractured coexistence, carefully maintained as Puerto Rican identity.      

With some giddiness, I digitally explored the area with my camera, bounding stone steps and short walls like an eight-year old. Afterwards, we took advantage of a prime parking spot and delved right into the old burg. Tired old fan blades sliced away for an hour or so in a snug, stuffy bar Pou and I found off a side street. It was hot. An ice cold Medalla Light, Puerto Rico’s main brew, melted on a napkin in front of me.

July 20, 2006 in Puerto Rico | Permalink | Comments (3)